In the 'Tuscany of Portugal,' Grape Harvests Kick In at Night

Under a moonlit sky and the glow of headlamps, workers gingerly pluck grape clusters while much of Portugal sleeps. They harvest in the Alentejo region, sometimes called the "Tuscany of Portugal" for its rolling vineyards, olive groves, and forests that supply cork for the wines. In this vineyard about a 90-minute drive east of Lisbon, the cool autumn night carries the smell of ripe fruit, and the workers' laughter blends with the sound of rustling leaves. The night harvest is a time-honored practice in viticulture, meant to preserve the freshness of grapes and shield them from the adverse effects of daytime heat, sunlight, and oxidation. As summers in Portugal grow longer, hotter, and more unpredictable—in part due to climate change—the practice has become more common, reports the AP.

• The wine harvest in Spain, Italy, and Portugal generally takes place between late August and October, with variations based on the region, type of grapes, and weather conditions. Some vineyards have been harvesting at night for years; in parts of Italy, others have for more than a decade. The El Coto de Rioja vineyard in Spain's famed La Rioja region opts for early morning harvests, beginning as early as 5am, according to Cesar Fernandez, the vineyard's technical director and winemaker.
• In Portugal's Alentejo region, daytime temperatures, particularly in August, can reach 104 degrees Fahrenheit, while at night, they can drop by as much as 36 degrees or more. Grapes are naturally sensitive to temperature shifts. Warmer weather can make them reach sugar maturity before developing a full flavor and ripeness, leading to higher alcohol levels but less complex wines. Intense heat also speeds up acid loss and can trigger early fermentation as wild yeasts and bacteria become more active. By harvesting at night, vintners can lock in more vibrant flavors that improve the quality of the wine produced.
• Barbara Monteiro, co-owner and manager of the Herdade da Fonte Santa vineyard, said she struggled at first to convince her harvesters to work at night—midnight to 8am. They began doing so in 2019. Around 3am, workers take a short break to rest and enjoy a meal known as a "bucha," consisting of cheese, olives, chorizo, bread, and even a bit of wine. Then they return to the fields for another four hours before heading home."Today, we can say they actually prefer this schedule, as they can often work almost another day, enjoy the day, and avoid the extreme heat we often experience here," she said.